From Chiapas down the isthmus through Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua and into Costa Rica, the night roads are patrolled by a double apparition that the whole region knows by one name: El Cadejo . It is a dog—but a dog the size of a calf, shaggy, chained or dragging a chain that clinks in the dust, with burning eyes : red coals in the dark of the cane-fields and the cobbled colonial streets; its hooves, in many tellings, are a goat's, and click on the stones. And it is two . The Cadejo is white, and the Cadejo is black; and between the two dogs the entire moral cosmos of the Central American night is divided. The white Cadejo is the protector: it appears beside the late traveler—the drunk swaying home from the cantina above all, the tradition's favorite ward—and walks him to his door, unseen or half-seen, standing off robbers, snakes, and the other dog. The black Cadejo is the peril: it stalks the same roads and the same drunks, and the man it overcomes—the tal...