The Boto: The Amazon River Dolphin That Becomes a Man at Night
The Amazon and its thousand tributaries are inhabited by an animal that seems designed by the river to unsettle its people: the boto , the great pink river dolphin— Inia geoffrensis —flesh-colored, long-beaked, warm-blooded, sociable, given to following canoes and surfacing beside bathers with an attention that feels, every river-dweller will tell you, personal . Around that uncanny attention the ribeirinho world built the most famous legend of the Brazilian waters. On festival nights—the June saints' feasts above all, when the riverside villages string lights and dance— the boto comes ashore as a man : tall, pale or red-tinted, charming beyond any local rival, dressed all in white, and always—the detail every telling guards like a jewel—wearing a hat, which he never removes , because beneath it his transformation is incomplete: the crown of his head still carries the blowhole . He is the finest dancer at the feast; he drinks, courts, and chooses the prettiest girl; he walks her t...