The Caleuche: The Ghost Ship of Chiloé That Sails Crewed by the Drowned
The archipelago of Chiloé, off the rainy south of Chile, is a country of its own: a hundred islands of wooden churches and potato fields, fog, tides, and a mythology so complete that the Chilotes speak of it less as folklore than as a parallel administration. And the flagship of that administration—literally—is the Caleuche : the great ghost ship of the southern channels. She appears at night, in the fog, blazing with light and loud with music : a beautiful vessel, lit stem to stern, with the sounds of a fiesta aboard—accordion, laughter, dancing feet—where no ship should be; and she vanishes when approached, or sinks smoothly under the surface to continue her voyage beneath the sea , for the Caleuche sails under water as easily as over it, and against wind and tide when it suits her. Her crew is the archipelago's dead: the drowned , gathered from the wrecks and the rip-tides by the mythology's three sea-beings—the mermaid Pincoya and her siblings, who carry the drowned to the...