The Cuélebre: The Winged Serpent of Asturias
Green Spain — the rain-fed, mountain-walled north, Asturias and Cantabria, where the Picos de Europa fall toward a grey sea — keeps a mythology that owes little to the sun-baked south. It is a country of deep caves, sudden fountains, chestnut forests, and mist, and its folklore is correspondingly Atlantic: closer in temper to Ireland and Brittany than to Andalusia. Sovereign over this landscape's terrors is the Cuélebre (in Cantabria, the Culebre): a serpent grown monstrous with age, winged with bat's wings, scaled so thickly that no blade or bullet can bite, who dens in caves and beneath waterfalls, guards heaped treasure and enchanted maidens, and must be fed — for the villages of old Asturias, in the tellings, bought their safety with bread, with cattle, and sometimes with more. His name descends plainly from the Latin colubra , snake; his pedigree descends, much less plainly, from something very old in the mountains — the great water-hoarding serpent that Indo-European peo...